1964 Studebaker Daytona



Tools required

 MIG welder with Helmet/Gloves

Body Hammer Set

Pop Riveter

Steel Pop Rivets - 1/8 in, 5/32in, 3/16 in  - 1/4 in - 1/2in depth

portable drill with 1/8 in, 5/32 in & 3/16 in drill bits

Vise Grips x 4

1 x Pall Peen Hammer

1 x Chisel


Parts & Supplies

2 x Rocker Panels

2 x New/refurbished Fenders

1 x RF Body Support

16 or 18 Gauge Sheet Metal

Long strand Fiberglass Filler

Fiberglass Reinforced Filler

3 x Putty Knifes - 1", 2", 3"

Rust Primer Paint

Stone Guard Undercoating

Seam Sealer

MIG welding flux core wire



After being driven during the first 16 years of its life in Ontario winters where road salt is used heavily and then 40 years of being

stored in a Garage, This car's body had areas that were rusted out in the trunk, floorboard and rear wheelwell areas.  The frame was in

good condition due to it being of a strong design and being made of thick 11 gauge metal. The front portion of the right front

body support was rusted out along with both rocker panels.  The body repairs was the area of this restoration that would take the

most time as each hole over 1 inch in size had fixed with new 16 gauge metal and smaller holes would be repaired being welded or

using Fiberglass reinforced Body filler and long strand fiberglass where stronger support was required.


Task : Prepare and install Body patch Panels

The metal used at the Studebaker factory on the body was 18 gauge sheet metal. Modern cars use only 22 Gauge and along of plastics

so ensure you purchase the right gauge metal. You need to make a template of all patch panels you intend to install using cardboard.

Ensure to have an 1 inch overlap on all patch panels and then drill 1/4 inch holes to spot weld the patch panels in place.  

You can cut the patch panels using a jig saw with a metal blade which works quite well. If you intend to do any

welding ensure that the gas tank is removed and no combustible fluids are anywhere need to where you plan to weld. Once welded you can use

seam sealer to  help waterproof the panel and also on the underbody use black HD stone guard. 


Task: Repair smaller holes in Body

To repair smaller holes I used Fiberglass reinforced Body filler which provides a strong waterproof patch. 

If you are an excellent welder then that's the way to go but sometimes its easier to go the fiberglass route unless you

want a Concours level car where you want all metal Body repairs. This car will be a good #3 driver so I used

a combination of metal patch panels and Fiberglass Body filler.

Task: Remove Front Fenders (if necessary) 

The Front Fenders are attached in five locations - there are three 1/2 in bolts/washers/shims that are located next to the door frame,

three 1/2 in body screws that are located in the lower intake panel (Front Bottom), three 1/2 in body screws up front when you open up the hood. 

In addition you will need to remove the spot welds that are located to the left/right of the headlights by drilling them out and

you will need to remove the drill out the seven spot welds located on the top edge of the outer fender where the hood bumpers are located.

Ensure you don't drill through the inner fender and then take a chisel to separate the inner and outer fender. You will also need to take

 the bolts out of the upper Air Deflector as each headlight air deflector has a piece of metal that holds the fender securely next

to the upper Air Deflector.  The fender will not come off if you don't do this last step.


Note:  If you have to remove the fender apron that is connected to the fender then you will have to remove the 3 body screws at the firewall

and the three body screws up front


Task: Undercoat Front Wheel well area

With the fender off it is a good time to clean and properly undercoat the fender apron, inside of the fender and front firewall that is accessible.

Use the premium grade of spray stone guard undercoating that gives excellent protection. If you happen to have any rust holes

you can do the necessary bodywork (weld new metal or fiberglass)  prior to the undercoating to ensure you restoration

work lasts many years to come.


Task: Install Front Fenders (if necessary)



    This restoration called for me to only replace the fenders.  You first attach the front part of the fender to the upper

Air Deflector ( 3 Body screws) ensuring you line up the fender and the metal piece of the Headlight air Deflector which will enable

you to insert the 3 body screws. You can then insert and tighten the three body screws in the lower intake panel. Next insert the three

fenders bolts starting at the top using the necessary rubber/metal shims to properly give a 3/16 inch gap between the door and the fender.

Measure the gap and also open and close the door to ensure they don't touch and the door opens and closes smoothly. Once all

of the bolts and screws are in check to ensure the hood has a gap of 3/16 inch front to rear.  If the gap is out you can loosen the screws

on the upper air deflector and also the 3 bolts that hold the hood and adjust to get a even gap and then tighten all screws/bolts. 

Recheck to ensure it close without any problems


Front Body Supports

  LF Body Support from Classic Enterprises - well-built & thicker then OEM



Tools required: - Ball-Peen Hammer

 12 inch long Chisel

Portable Drill with 1/4 inch bit  

9/16 inch wrench

Wire brush bit

Replacement Body Supports

Nut Splitter

Portable Angle Grinder


Note: Car needs to be up on jack stands or on hoist to better enable you to install the Body Supports 

This can be a difficult task as they can be very hard to remove- brute Strength usually gets the job done    


Task: Remove Front Body Supports


The Front Body Supports on the 1964 Daytona are secured using approx 12 spot Welds - where it meets the floorboard & 2 x 9/16 inch bolts

fine thread located top and bottom. You proceed by using the wire bit to clean off all of the dirt, rust and grit from the old Body Support

where it has the 12 Sport Welds where possible.  Once exposed you start to drill out the spot welds to the thickness of the metal so you don't drill through

the floorboard.  You can remove the nine up front using the chisel to separate the Body support form the floorboard & then removed both bolts

and hen remove the 3 at the back using the chisel.  This should allow you to remove the body support.  If it doesn't come out then you need

to remove the spot weld that is stopping it from coming out.  Take out the other front Body Support in the same manner if required


Task: Install new Front Body Supports

  Prep new Body support by applying primer & black rust paint.  Ensure floorboard is clean and painted underneath where the body support

will be installed.  Drill 1/4 inch holes in floorboard where the body support will be reattached by spot-welding. Tap the new Body Support

in the same position and angle as the one removed. Install both bolts and proceed to spot weld it ensuring it lines up with the original position

of the removed Body Support. Ensure it is welded securely and properly supports the body as intended





1964 Daytona Restoration