1964 Studebaker Daytona Restoration



New Fuel line installed



Task: Remove Fuel Line 

Tools required:

- 3/8 in Box End Wrench or

- 3/8 in socket with wrench

- Pipe cutter

- Fuel Line Pipe bender


Note: Car needs to be up on jack stands or on hoist to easily drain and remove Tank  if not already done  

Parts Required:

- 14 ft of 5/16 metal fuel line 

- Fram G2 Fuel Filter

- 6 x fuel line clamps (original or replacement)

- 6 x 3/8  in head body screws (original or replacement) 


After 56 years the original metal fuel line was full of holes and needed replacement. Proceed by removing

the 3/8 in body screws that hold the fuel line to the frame ensuring not to strip them as they can be salvaged and used again.

It takes 14 ft of fuel line to replace the old line and normally you buy a roll of 25ft to ensure you have enough

Fram G2 Fuel Filter installed - Can be also located in front just next to Fuel Pump


Task: Remove Gas Tank

Gas Tank

57 yr old gas tank needed some work


Tools required: - 3 Ton Floor Jack

1 piece of Plywood 18 in x 18 in approx

9/16 in Box End Wrench x 2  

Large Gas Can

Vise Grips

Flat tip Screwdriver

Nut Splitter - Optional to split rusted tank nuts

Impact driver - Optional to remove fuel sending unit screws

Note: Car needs to be up on jack stands or on hoist to easily drain and remove Tank 


Parts required:   - Gas Tank filler hose ( if required)

3 new gas Tank Mounting bolts (if required)

5 new fuel sending unit screws (if required)

Fuel sending unit gasket 

Vinegar & Baking soda

100% Lye (if required)    

Never attempt to start any vehicle that has been sitting for many years without emptying and removing the gas tank to check for leaks

 and dirt/gas sludge in the gas tank. Attempt to empty the gas tank first if it has old fuel in it and so it is easier to handle. You can either drain it from underneath

using a gas can and vice Grips to control the flow of gas or you can siphon it out. Once you get as much out as you can then proceed to remove the three nuts

 that hold the tank in place while having a floor jack with a piece of plywood between the jack and tank. If the nuts are rusted on then use a nut splitter to

remove the nuts safely. Remove all of the bolts/nuts, lower to the ground ensuring you have disconnected the fuel sending unit wire and also remove the

gas tank filler clamp & hose. Remove the fuel sending unit and inspect the inside of the tank.


GAS TANK INTERIOR - I inspected the Daytona tank and it had quite abit of gas sludge on the bottom of the tank. I prepare a mixture of 50% white vinegar

and 50% water with baking soda - using 4 litres each. Let it sit overnight and in morning proceed to empty the mixture out of the tank and rinse out the tank

using water until clean of mixture. If you have still some gas varnish left in the tank you may need to try acetone or 100% lye to remove the gas varnish if the

vinegar , water & baking soda doesn't work. Also you can put a piece of chain connected to a coat hanger in the tank and shake the tank to break up

any chunks. I used 100% lye and ensure you put the pellets into the dry gas tank first - 1 tablespoon per gallon of water. Pour cold water into

the tank ensuring you are wearing rubber gloves and eye protection.  Full up tank and let it seat overnight and then drain into a metal container

and dispose of it as hazardous waste. Ensure you tank is thoroughly cleaned as you will only be replacing fuel filters and will plug up

your carb with real nasty gunk while also causing you to breakdown or even engine problems if this varnish gets into the engine.


GAS TANK EXTERIOR - I used some rust converter on the outside of the tank as it had sat in a garage for 40+ years full of gas. The gas tank was not leaking when I picked up

the car but I also used some SEAL-ALL on areas that may cause a problem down the road. Once it was thoroughly dry I proceed to paint it with Aluminum Rust paint.


Note - if your gas tank was leaking then you will have to take it to a take it to a shop that can pressure test it for leaks, get it cleaned, solder any holes and it could also need to be sealed.

Only seal your tank unless absolutely necessary . If the sealer doesn't bond to the inside of the tank then you will have a tough time getting out all of the failed sealer

and could mean that you will have to get a whole new tank or get the old one cut open to clean and get patched up- Can be costly


Task: Check Fuel Sending Unit

  Once you have the gas tank ready for re-installation you will need to check the Fuel Sending unit for serviceability.  Ensure it is still working by reconnecting the

fuel sending unit while ensuring it is grounded, turn on your ignition and move the arm up and down to see if the gauge moves. If nothing happens then

ground the fuel sending unit wire and if the gas gauge reads full that tells you have a good connection to the gauge. Check the ground and if it still doesn't work

then you will have to replace the fuel sending unit. If everything works except the gauge reads incorrectly you will have to adjust/bend the arm to get a true reading.



Task: Remove and rebuild Stromberg 2 BBL Carb


Tools required:

-  5/16 in - 7/16 in - 9/16 in Box End Wrenches

- Wire Brush

- Paint Brush

 - Flat-tip Screwdriver

- Varsol along with a plastic tub to enable you to clean carb

- Carb Rebuild Carb Kit

- Needle Nose Pliers

- Sharp pointed scrapper

- Cleaning Rag



        The WW Stromberg is a very reliable carburetor but after 40 years in a garage it needed to be rebuilt.  Proceed with removing the air filter ensuring to take everything

off in sequence for ease of reinstallation.  Next remove throttle linkage on driver's side of Carb with a 7/16 in and 5/16 in wrenches. Remove throttle spring

Remove the 4 x 1/2 inch nuts at the base of the Carb, the rear two rubber hoses that lead to the PCV Valve and Distributor. Lift the Carb away from the Intake manifold

and place on a table to where the rebuild from be done ensuring not to lose any parts  taken off during the rebuild. Get out the Rebuild sheet for this Carb

and read thoroughly before disassembly see worksheet below. Remove parts in the following sequence:


Remove Dashpot

Remove arm to Pump Piston - Remove threads are in reverse

Remove Unloader Link

Remove 4 remaining screws that hold the air Horn to Main Body

Remove Choke Connector

            Lift the Air Horn assembly away from the Main Body,

 Remove Pump Piston to include all springs. Note the Pump Inlet Check Ball.

Check Pump Piston Leather boot, apply motor oil if dry

Check Pump discharge nozzle assembly Note smaller Check Ball

Remove main Body gasket - to be replaced with new gasket during reassembly

If carb is dirty then this is the time to clean it before reassembly - use varsol in plastic tub and paint brush

Take you time and clean thoroughly with sharp pointed scrapper to break up all of the old gas stains and caked on dirt.

Take varsol soaked brush and get into al of the nooks and crannies

Take 9/16 wrench and remove Needle and seat assembly

Check position of Float assembly - remove if any dirt or grime in Bowl

Install new Needle Valve and reinstall the Needle and seat assembly

Reassembly carb in the reverse order it was disassembled.

Once assembled go over adjustments as per worksheet

Reinstall on intake manifold using new base Gasket

Stromberg disassembled for cleaning





1964 Daytona Restoration